Walter Van Beirendonck FW25
Walter Van Beirendonck's latest collection for Autumn-Winter 2025-26 stands as a study in recalibration, with the designer opting for introspection rather than the explosive emotionality often associated with his work. Known for his bold visual narratives and avant-garde approach, Van Beirendonck chooses this season to engage in a more thoughtful dialogue with fashion—with a marked emphasis on "NEW."
This collection is rooted in craftsmanship and tailoring, as the designer combines clean precision with elements of surrealism, layering references to alien iconography, folklore, and surprising textures. As he states in his manifesto, the intention this season is not to overwhelm but to reimagine the possible.
Van Beirendonck heavily emphasizes on his reflections on the limitations of today’s fashion landscape, where vintage trends and archival revivals dominate. While reverence for the past has its place, he highlights the risk of these trends becoming stagnant, this collection thus celebrates invention without nostalgia.
Fabrics play a central role in Van Beirendonck’s vision. By merging traditional techniques with advanced technologies such as 3D-printed accents and AI-generated patterns, he pushes craftsmanship into new territory. Alien-inspired contours, prosthetics, and dented shapes evoke an otherworldly presence while remaining rooted in meticulous construction. Materials sourced from English and Scottish mills blend with Dutch artisanal methods, mixing fantastical elements with tangible quality.
The Autumn-Winter 2025-26 collection is not simply a continuation of Van Beirendonck's storied career; it is a recontextualization. By stripping away the superfluous and focusing on intention, he offers a vision of fashion that challenges without overwhelming.
Words CLAIRE H.
Photography DONALD GJOKA
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