Vaquera SS24
Opening with rapid camera flashes that mimicked lurking paparazzi, Vaquera SS24 runway show was a schizophrenic meditation on how stars and the rest of us (we are all stars in this social media-dominated post-secular society) have to negotiate an existence constantly offuscated by a barrage of cameras.
Patric DiCaprio and Bryn Taubensee displayed a collection of 41 uncompromising looks that seemed to be designed with the intent of both hiding the wearer from the constant digital scrutiny (doubled down by sinister high-pitched sounds that could be interpreted as the relentless assault against privacy that cameras perpetrate every day) and infusing eroticism in this escape from the other’s gaze.
Thus a gold fishnet catsuit exposing the model’s body was followed up by “regular” looks that still exposed bra and panties. Is eroticism the answer to being scrutinized? Should we double down and expose what cameras are, not so secretly, aiming at?
The main accessories were black sunglasses and generous hats, two common ways of protecting one’s own identity, and an ode to shapeshifting to evade surveillance capitalism, which we were reminded of also thanks to larger-than-life shirting, infinite neck-ties and perverted office-like attire. Giant rose-shaped bows and decorations were also a recurring motif of the show’s second part: as a rose quickly withers, there’s beauty in the fasted possible disappearance.
photography DONALD GJOKA
words DAVIDE ANDREATTA
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