Jun 25

Jun 25 Rick Owens SS25

Rick Owens' recent seasons featured intimate, exclusive shows in his home, aiming to respect the global conflicts and the world-spread suffering. Feeling it was inappropriate to hold grand fashion events amidst such crises, Owens opted for a more subdued approach. However, for the Spring/Summer 2025 collection, titled Hollywood, he shifted gears, returning to the Palais de Tokyo for a Hollywood-scale epic. Reflecting on his departure from a conservative upbringing to the vibrant scene of Los Angeles, where he found his community among creatives and outcasts, Owens crafted a show centered on unity.

The show began with Owens’ muse, Tyrone Dylan, in an all-white ensemble with a flowing cape. Following him, a diverse cast of models, including hundreds of street-cast students from Paris, showcased bandage-like tops, biker leathers, long gowns, and wide-shouldered coats with Owens' signature curved horns.

Feeling guilty about the exclusivity of his previous home shows, Owens invited a broad array of fashion students and anyone interested to participate. This inclusiveness extended to the variety of body types on the runway, with models of all shapes and sizes featured in distressed cotton, silks, and Owens' iconic Kiss boots.

Owens' collection drew from Pre-Code Hollywood films, noted for their mix of art deco, sin, and morality. References to films like Lot in Sodom and The Sign of The Cross were evident in the designs, including sweeping cloaks, crescent headdresses, and papal helmets.

The collection also emphasized sustainability, using narrow-loomed denim treated with eco-friendly processes, vegetable-tanned cowhide, and GOTS-certified silk. Designer Dafne Balatsos contributed robes made from the last stock of Oriental Silks, reflecting Owens' long-term commitment to mindful production.

The show featured acrobatic performances and models carrying structures, evoking images of Ancient Rome. Owens explained the collection as a tribute to unity and mutual reliance, a counterpoint to the current global climate of intolerance.

The runway was accompanied by Beethoven’s Symphony No. 7, chosen for its dignity and aspirational tone. Owens described the music as elegant and positive, aligning with his message of unity in a time of discord.

Rick Owens' SS25 collection at Palais de Tokyo was a blend of grand theatricality and profound inclusivity, highlighting both the designer's historical influences and his commitment to addressing contemporary issues. The show stood as a testament to unity, creativity, and the power of community in challenging times.