All in backstage
From what seemed to be a 70's disco club emerged in red dimmed lights, transformed into an almost spiritual vintage story of velvets, prescious flower embroderies and princess silhouettes worn together with macro shaded glasses. Alessandro Michele made the flowers whisper.
The dutch denim master presented her genderless SS17 collection by turning it into a real redneck party. Sophie’s cowboys were wearing boots together with deconstructed denim pieces inspired by the wild west.
Phoebe English SS17 was presented at the Institute of Contemporary Arts in London with seven characters performing seven actions and experiences across the span of seven days. Characters included The Archer, The Water Bearer, The Enquirer, The Smuggler, The Chanter, The Strangler, and The Mourner.
Barbara followed her main philosophy this season as well. Timeless pieces with a perfect fit, created with fine materials. She limited her colour palette to earthy tones in olive, rusty red and sand while adding a contrast of different textures and asian influences.
Faustine Steinmetz Presentation for Spring/Summer 2017 again reworked denim in innovative and inspiring ways. The presentation included models in displays not unlike a gallery or museum space.
The Ryan LO SS17 show was inspired by the designer’s upbringing in Hong Kong with hints of the Middle East.
Soundtracked by Dev Hynes, Zoe Latta and Mike Eckhaus chose to celebrate their fifth anniversary and show their tenth collection in the neighbourhood where they first began their designing journey in 2011.
The models marched out in protest in front of a nuclear power plant wearing a patch with the collection's motto: "Atomkraft? Nein Danke" (Nuclear power? No thank you").
Riccardo Tisci's collections have been very dark for many seasons. Even though the catwalk was filled with warrior-like models, this spring collection was suddenly more spiritual and happy.
A.P.C celebrated their 30th anniversary by presenting their SS2017 season with British influences.
Julian Zigerli created the "SORRY" who rocked the Palais the Tokyo. The show represented all the things we should and shouldn't be sorry for.
This season’s Maison Margiela focused on the craft of making, and the concept of reduction and artful deconstruction.
The Post-Humanism collection from the Boris Bidjan Saberi SS17 is a real match, yet mix between humans and machines.
Loose fitted crinkled suits, over-sized raincoats and tailored jumpsuits. Yusuke was inspired by Varanasi, the spiritual capital of India.
Ackerman said “It’s all about freedom” and so he pushed his dandy aesthetic towards the sportswear territory and didn’t leave one Pantone chart unexplored.
Glenn Marten’s pirates rocked the runway, set on a boat by the banks of Seine playing dub reggae and jamming tunes.
The show was held in the beautiful Palais de la Femme, a 1910 vintage charitable refuge for distressed women. Christophe Lemaire and Sarah Linh Tran went on a voyage and brought multicultural influences to this season.
The collection contrasted with sober textiles and sensual treatments in olive, white, ochre, orange, indigo and black. Stretched proportions that resulted in a softening between the female and male silhouette.
Sleek, sleek, sleek. The glossy hair matched the shiny tailored leg trousers, long trench coats and the clean colour palette. Jil returned to her true founding principles and roots — nineties minimalism.
Asymmetrical sweaters, long coats and oversized tops were the common theme for the Raf Simons SS17 collection while the mannequins proudly wore Robert Mapplethorpe photographs as prints on their chest.
