As transparent as your designs are - let’s dive into things at plain sight: Where did you get this idea for the Hieronymus Bosch pant - what is your connection to this medieval artist?
Hieronymous Bosch was considered the "grandfather" of surrealism; and since beginning my garment making practice, I have spent a lot of time gathering and studying surrealism from the first half of the 20th century. As one the earliest references and influences to the movement, the Bosch pants were almost a starting point for me: an ode to surrealism. I am heavily inspired by the garments that were made in conjunction with the art movement through designers such as Elsa Schiaparelli or Meret Oppenheim. In my own work I look to address/point to the responsibilities that come with dressing a femme body. But I do this through the lens of surrealist based imagery, especially since so much had to do with deconstructing the femme body.

Tell us about your process. When did you develop your signature window?
The first inspiration I got for the window was through the Salvador Dali painting „Day and Night“. It involved a complex jacket with a window pane in the front that could be opened and closed by levers that protruded as shoulder pads. I spent forever trying to construct it, just to wear it to a rave so I could flash people. After failing miserably, I decided to play around with the idea and spent some time on dollhouse making forums online, which definitely lead to the first window sweaters I made.

Your emailadress „genitalpanic“ matches your translucent PVC design framed by dreamy little curtains showing pubes, ass or nipples - tell us more about your vision of transparency and sexuality.
The name „Genital Panic“ is actually the english translation of the german piece „Aktionhose: Genitalpanik“ made by one of my favorite artists VALIEEXPORT. She was an Austrian artist in the late half of the 20th century and the piece involved her walking around in public with a pair of leather pants with the crotch cut out. I actually came across her work after I began making my window pieces and was so moved. I have her famous Action Pants photograph as the signature to my email to give credit where credit is due, and you can read more about her work on my blog martinacox.com/journal

You spend a year in Berlin at the UDK: Did Berlin give you some fresh input and takes on your vision on things as a designer?
I did study at UdK but at that time in my life I was a having a really hard time functioning and finding a place for myself in art school. I think I made work I thought I was supposed to make, so it just was hard to feel good in a studio or classroom. I think I used clubbing as an escape from that and eventually through friends I made, I started channeling a lot of creativity in getting dressed up and altering garments to go out.

What inspires you most at the moment?
Right now I am back on my streak of surrealism and focusing on a couple painters that I have fallen in love with: Dorothea Tanning and Leonor Fini just to name two. They embodied so much strength in their work, but in a hauntingly beautiful way, I am looking forward to reading Dorothea Tannings novel „Chasm“. Also, I’m getting some inspo from puppetry, which is in very early stages, but I can see it going somewhere.

How comfortably do you feel living in NY: What do you like - what do you hate about it?
I am actually born and raised in NYC, so I’m not sure if there is a place I feel more comfortable? - I love the creative side of NY through and through. I say creative specifically, because there is a lot of financial and political stuff happening here, that I completely resent. The creaty side is still happening though, there is some creative bubble here, that has pushed me quite a bit out of comfort zones - even though I sometimes physically feel I don't have enough space.

What vision do you have for the future - what are you dreaming of?
I am not looking to far ahead, but I really want to go into video- and performative work with my clothing.

What do you get anxious about (in general)?
I can't even smoke weed since it heightens my anxieties tenfold and I definitely start to think too much. Even this question makes me anxious cause its so loaded like where do I even begin! Small? I guess I am anxious about making rent because i just moved. Going to openings makes me anxious as well, these are all just pertaining to my every day life not even delving into the anxieties of a globalized world. And whats going on in the States with the US President, now THAT will make me anxious.

You seem to use flowery elements in your designs: If you were a flower, which one would you be?
I would definitely be a floral print over a flower. Something red and victorian.

What kind of bodies do you like to work with? (Will we see some cellulite, colored skin and curves pressed against the little windows?)
I want to work with all body types all of the time! I have only had the chance to organize one shoot by myself and so besides that the decisions have been mostly out of my hands.

As I get more free time I definitely want to organize my own shoots/look books to see more of this too. I have gotten requests for 'mens' clothing but Its hard for me to just label my clothes that way since its such a spectrum and using binary terms like that is not really what I see my work in line with. I guess the only people I would specifically not be making my work for would be cis identifying men, but still not sure? It just really has to do with the individual and where they stand in their relationship to their body since my clothing can be both empowering but also the complete opposite, its all circumstantial so its hard to make blanket statements like that.