MAGLIANO SS24

MAGLIANO SS24

Magliano was founded by Luca Magliano in 2017, and is based in Bologna, a symbol of Italian libertarian movements and class struggle: the city is celebrated as a paradigm of both ethics and aesthetics. In 2018, Pitti Uomo hosted the brand's debut show, a collection that highlighted an idea of personal elegance, by now deep-rooted: luxury is nothing more than a gesture. Much of the brand imagery is nurtured by the concept of the "provincia", a widespread system of dramatic landscapes and peripheral areas where people speak vernacular languages and where magic realism happens. Magliano imbues menswear fundamentals with a dark, off-beat and dishevelled attitude to make it a natural genderless code. The design is minimal yet chaotic, the tone quintessentially Italian.

The winner of the Karl Lagerfeld Special Jury Prize, Luca Magliano developed the  spring/summer 2024 collection, showcased in Milan, under the brief “answered prayers.” The brand has been gaining increasing heat on the Milan scene in the last few seasons. Those who felt drawn to it since the beginning or before it landed in front of the jury comprising the likes of Jonathan Anderson, Maria Grazia Chiuri, Nicolas Ghesquière and more didn’t miss the chance to voice their support for Magliano in the final stages of the contest nor to underscore with pride their loyalty after he scooped up the prize.

The LVMH Prize-winning designer took Magliano into the depths of wretched couture. For the designer, the spring/summer 2024 was about giving back to those who supported him throughout his emerging years. However today, at “Palamagliano,” there was an elevated runway offering hundreds of showgoers a complete men’s and womenswear collection. It drew on prayers, epigraphs and thanksgiving, treating clothes like “talismans because of the events that have occurred.”

Bomber jackets skewed on the models, trousers that had waistbands upon waistbands, tank tops layered atop one another, a model holding a lit cigarette dressed in a nightgown, as if he’s just woken up for his morning smoke. Suit jackets were oversized to new experimental proportions, decoding unconventional rules. Blazers were ripped at the rear and pinned to reveal lace appliqués. Knitwear was restrained and constrictive, working like a straight jacket as one model tucked their arms into a sweater, but still felt comfortable for the everyday.

The collection paired with Magliano’s latest footwear range, the second season of the U-Power Anti-Hardslip collaboration.
This is Magliano’s new artwork, created with the struggles + prayers.   

 

photography by DONALD GJOKA

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