Sep 23

Sep 23 Han Kjobenhavn SS24

For his SS24 pret-á-porter collection, Han Kjøbenhavn grafted brutality into a neoclassical and elegant context. And if every piece of clothing can be thought of as a habitat the wearer is living in (being influenced by it and, in turn, constantly reshaping it), the collection, presented at Palazzo Reale di Milano, proposed a sculptural, rigid and yet breathable world to live in. For every stiff structure imposed on the models’ bodies, there was always some space left between the garment and its support, allowing for fluxes (of air, desire, light,...) to flow freely.

Titled “Unlightened Particles”, the collection acts as a metaphor to describe a hidden potential within something or someone: «There are always aspects that remain undiscovered or not fully realized. It’s about enlightenment and the uncovering of hidden capabilities”, in the words of Jannik Wikkelsø Davidsen, artistic director at Han Kjøbenhavn. This enlightenment is quite a nocturnal one, one that doesn’t end in a rational posture but in an impersonal scorching of the night.

Also testified by the savage sonic crescendo assaulting the space, the sculptural rigidity displayed amounted to restraining an eruption, of a beast or an abstract surrender of the body is yet to be determined. Maybe the choice is up to the wearer. Unlightened particles, or ignition.

Memory leather, crepe wool, neoprene, and draped mesh were the dominating fabrics throughout the collection, and the designs were kept in a muted color scale. Besides this, some uncanny accessories made their appearance: half crosses (somehow reminiscent of Thee Temple of Psychic Youth distinctive symbol) and half buttplugs these objects were held by various models both as a deterrent and a promise of delight. On this topic: a key piece of the collection implemented Sinful’s tongue toy creating a drapey, flared mesh dress, that connected the art of fashion with human desire. Mathilde Machowski, founder of Sinful, elaborates on the creative collab: «Fashion and pleasure are intrinsically connected. It’s all about exploring and being playful».

As many looks in the collection proved, this was an adventure in contrasts. Taking look 20 as an example, an apparently unassuming look compared to the creative grandiosity of other outfits showcased, formal menswear underwent a process of re-imagination that turned the model into half an officer and half a raver. Desire, which is always latent and un-lightened, uncovers potential, buries all the rest.