Chiyang Duan
Fashion often mirrors the complex tapestry of personal experiences and cultural heritage. Chiyang, an avant-garde designer, crafts collections that reflect his singular journey. From early exposure to design through a family member to transformative experiences in Western societies, Chiyang’s work epitomizes resilience, creativity, and deep cultural connection. His collections, inspired by Buddhism and personal struggles, redefine functional fashion while expressing the collective emotions of a generation.
Series 1: Twist, Iterative, Loop
Chiyang’s Accessories Collection draws from Asian religions, particularly Buddhism. This collection features the circle lock, a fixture in the attire of Buddhist monks. Traditionally used to secure sleeveless garments, Chiyang reimagined the circle lock by deconstructing and reconstructing it, creating innovative buckle designs. Influenced by minimalism and maximalism, he explored two distinct outcomes:
1. Multiplied Buckles: Introducing multiple buckles creates a novel object and usage method.
2. Transformed Buckle: The buckle retains its function but assumes a radically new form.
Series 2: De-Identity, Faceless, Fringe
This is deeply personal. Constant relocations since elementary school left Chiyang struggling to find a sense of belonging. As an Asian in Western society, this was exacerbated by discrimination. These experiences fueled a collection that records a young person’s journey and the shared emotions of Eastern travelers.
Chiyang, let’s delve into your early years and how you ventured into fashion design. What's your story?
My uncle, a ceramic art major turned interior designer, introduced me to design. He taught me the distinctions between art and design. This influenced my belief that design requires rationality, while art thrives on sensibility.
You’re now with Hermès, but let's discuss your MA collection. How do your personal experiences and Buddhism inform your work?
Studying in the UK, I faced significant racism. This led me to reflect on the system and myself. My graduate collection critiqued the UK education system's treatment of Asian students. I created six hoodies transformed into masked cloaks, using waxed canvas to convey a suffocating experience. This collection Expressed my emotions and recorded the experiences of Asian students, like leaves that arrived with dreams but left disappointed.
Inspirations and Challenges
Your designs are industrial and grunge-inspired. What are your influences and target psychographics?
My eyewear collection drew inspiration from the London Underground. The TFL color system is magnificent, reminiscent of Josef Albers' color studies and Lucian Freud's palettes. Both follow a serious aesthetic, using grays and light colors like yellow and brown.
Inspiration often stems from surroundings and experiences. For Chiyang, the London Underground’s color system provided a unique palette. His work blends industrial grunge with meticulous craftsmanship, resonating with a specific psychographic profile.
What challenges did you face? How did your creative direction influence your process and discoveries?
Using gray prominently in the eyewear collection, I challenged myself to move beyond black and white, prevalent in my previous collections. Finding innovative color combinations to form a new visual language is a continuous study for a designer.
Achievements and Future Directions
You’re a finalist for the 39th Hyères International Festival. What do you attribute your success to?
My graduation collection was introspective, focusing too much on self-expression and neglecting rational problem-solving. My latest eyewear collection prioritized practicality. Removing emotional biases allowed me to create a timeless aesthetic, helping me enter the competition.
Chiyang’s journey is marked by achievements like being a Hyères International Festival finalist. Balancing self-expression with practical design has been key to his success, showcasing a timeless aesthetic.
You’ve designed eyewear, bags, jewelry, and garments. How has this holistic experience shaped you?
Designing accessories, which I see as supporting characters to clothing’s protagonist, allows for a complete world. My background in accessories gives me unique perspectives in garment design, diverging from traditional fashion design.
Vision and Upcoming Projects
What’s your vision for future collections? Who are your target consumers?
Preparing for the Hyères Festival, I’m working on an upgraded collection with a catwalk presentation. I’m also considering mass-producible designs combined with ready-to-wear clothing. I’m fascinated by tools and workwear, aiming to present an aesthetic shaped by my vision.
Looking ahead, Chiyang aims to blend avant-garde style with practical, ready-to-wear pieces. His interest in tools and workwear suggests future collections that merge utility with artistic vision, catering to a broader audience.
What can we expect next from you?
I’m collaborating with Hermès on leather fashion accessories, launching at the Hyères Festival. Working with their fashion accessories department and visiting the Hermès family collective was invaluable. This collaboration promises to showcase some of my best work.
Chiyang’s journey in fashion is a compelling blend of personal experience, cultural reflection, and innovative design. As he continues to evolve and push boundaries, his work is a testament to the intersection of art, design, and identity. With upcoming projects and collaborations, the future looks incredibly promising for this talented designer.
Interview JAGRATI MAHAVER
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