DI PETSA FW25
Di Petsa’s latest offering paid homage to their signature wet-look draping, but with a striking shift. This season, the collection introduced heavier-looking fabrics—vegan leather, velvet, and faux fur—adding a new dimension of darkness to their ethereal aesthetic.
Still, the theme of divinity remained central in Dimitra Petsa’s work. Titled Reflections of Desire, the showcase explored and reimagined archetypes of female desire, with each look embodying a character in its own right.
Petsa’s most personal pieces were probably the pair of white trousers adorned with pink lipstick marks concentrated around the crotch as well as her own poetry printed onto A5-sized fabric panels, stitched into micro-skirts and underwired crop tops.
The characters of this show included poets, muses, fantasies, and goddesses, all tied to the creative force of Eros––who was also present. Dressed in a corseted white blouse, matching trousers, and angel wings, in the signature wet-look pleating, he carried a single red flower.
Other moments of note included a model in a mini nightgown, flashing vampire fangs as she strutted down the catwalk with a smoking candleholder in hand.
A veiled bride, half her face concealed, moved through the space in a floor-length gown that left only her arms naked, flanked by five men in nothing but white lace-trimmed briefs, who would all at one point get on the floor in a display of worship for the ethereal creature in white.
A ‘brother-sister’ pairing saw the male model don an armor plate, pearl-netted skirt, and pearl-encrusted sword, while his counterpart wore a matching skirt and pearl bra over lace lingerie.
The casting was equally captivating, with the show’s most viral moment arguably being Mia Khalifa’s runway appearance in a plunging brown robe with velvet details. More fascinating, however, was the display of diverse bodies, including all women and men in Petsa’s imagination of female desire––a welcome shift from how things in the industry are currently looking.
However, as Di Petsa experiments beyond her signature aesthetic, the shift in fabric and structure raises the question of how long the wet-look will remain the brand’s defining feature.
This collection suggests a willingness to evolve—perhaps hinting at broader creative possibilities in future seasons. It will be interesting to see how Petsa continues to develop her vision while staying true to the themes that have shaped her work so far.
As part of the BFC’s NEWGEN initiative, Di Petsa’s role as an emerging talent in British fashion is highlighted but also places them under increasing scrutiny regarding sustainability. Partnering with Copenhagen Fashion Week, the British Fashion Council has begun to implement stricter sustainability requirements, set to be fully enforced by 2026.
Vegan leather and fake fur are commonly greenwashed and marketed as sustainable alternatives, even though they remain major environmental pollutants. More sustainable options are available, like wood-based faux fur or vegan leather from agricultural waste.
When inquiring about the material used in the Di Petsa AW25 collection, the brand was not able to give clear info––they referred to their atelier in Athens. It is not clear what kind of vegan leather and faux fur they used, however, their previous use of pleather in their AW24 collection with a material composition of 92% polyester and 8% elasthane suggests a reliance on conventional synthetics.
As the BFC tightens sustainability standards, it is crucial for NEWGEN designers to switch to eco-friendly alternatives, ensuring their creative talent is not overshadowed by their fabric choices.
Words LYNN DITTEL
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